Part 6: Meeting the Criollos and First Ride Through the CountrysideDate posted: September 30Jewel CartwrightThis morning, after a night of restless excitement, I finally got to meet the Criollos up close. The day began early, the way it always does on a ranch, but there was something different in the air—a sense of anticipation I couldn't shake. I'm used to early mornings and ranch work, but today felt special.
I made my way to the stables just as the sun was rising, casting a soft golden light over the pastures. Esteban was already there, waiting with a small group of ranch hands, each of them tending to a horse. As I approached, Esteban greeted me with his usual warm smile and motioned for me to follow him to the paddocks.
"There they are," he said, his voice full of pride as we reached the enclosure. And there they were—the Criollos. Up close, they were even more stunning than I had imagined. Muscular but compact, with coats ranging from deep, gleaming blacks to dappled grays and striking Grullas and Duns. Their eyes were sharp and intelligent, their ears flicking forward in curiosity as they watched me approach. These were horses bred for toughness, resilience, and loyalty—everything I'd always admired about the breed.
Esteban introduced me to a few of his prized horses, naming each one as if they were family. Fuego, a sleek black stallion with a fiery spirit, stood out immediately, his muscles rippling beneath his glossy coat. Then there was Cielo Azul, a gentle Grulla mare whose calm demeanor instantly drew me in. I could already see her leading the charge in our endurance program back home.
But the one who stole my heart the moment I laid eyes on him was Ceniza—a striking Blue Roan gelding with soft eyes and a quiet confidence. Esteban must have noticed my gaze linger on him because he smiled and said, "Ceniza would be perfect for your first ride."
I was a little taken aback, not expecting to ride so soon, but I couldn't resist the offer. After all, this is what I came for—to experience these horses in their element, the way Emily once did. The ranch hands saddled Ceniza, and before I knew it, I was swinging up into the saddle, feeling the strength of him beneath me. He shifted slightly but settled quickly, like he knew we were about to embark on something special.
Esteban mounted his own horse, a powerful Dun stallion named Sol, and motioned for me to follow him. "We'll ride out to the river," he said, setting off at a steady pace.
The moment Ceniza and I started moving, I could feel the connection between us—he was responsive, smooth, and surefooted, completely at ease in his surroundings. As we rode out into the open countryside, the vastness of the pampas hit me again. The land seemed to stretch endlessly in all directions, with the occasional cluster of trees breaking up the horizon. There's a sense of freedom here, a wide-open space that feels like it belongs to both the land and the horses.
We rode in comfortable silence for a while, the only sound being the rhythmic beat of hooves on the earth and the soft whistle of the wind through the grass. Every so often, Esteban would glance over, giving me a knowing nod, as if to say, "This is what it's all about."
At one point, we came across a small herd of cattle grazing near the riverbank, and Esteban suggested we round them up and move them to another pasture. I was more than eager to help, slipping into familiar ranch mode. Ceniza proved his worth immediately—he had that natural cow sense that the Criollos are known for, easily anticipating the cattle's movements and keeping them in line with minimal effort on my part. It felt like second nature, riding him through the herd, working together as a team.
There's something about the way these horses move on the land—it's as if they're part of it, fully connected to every inch of the ground beneath their hooves. Ceniza was steady, focused, and seemed to read my thoughts before I could even give him a cue. It was pure harmony, something I've only felt with a handful of horses in my life.
After the cattle were safely moved, Esteban and I took a break by the river, letting the horses rest. We sat on the grassy bank, watching as Ceniza and Sol drank from the cool water. Esteban started to tell me more about the Criollo breed and how they'd evolved to survive in the harshest conditions. He spoke of the Spanish settlers who first brought horses to South America, and how the Criollos became tough, enduring everything from long journeys across unforgiving landscapes to intense work with cattle. Their history is woven into the very fabric of Argentina, and hearing Esteban talk about them with such reverence made me appreciate them even more.
As the sun climbed higher in the sky, we rode back to the ranch. Ceniza seemed to carry me effortlessly, and I felt a deep connection with him—like I'd known him for years instead of just a few hours. It's amazing how quickly a bond can form when you're riding through open country together.
When we arrived back at the stables, I helped the ranch hands unsaddle the horses and give them a good rub down. Esteban chuckled when he saw me pitching in. "You're not just a visitor, are you? You're one of us," he said with a wink. And honestly, that's exactly how I felt. Helping out with the horses, working alongside the ranch hands—it felt like home, just a different version of it.
We spent the rest of the day working on the ranch—feeding, grooming, and getting the horses ready for the next day's ride. I could tell that the work here wasn't much different from Southern Lights, yet there was something uniquely Argentine about the way things were done. It was as if every task, no matter how small, was imbued with a sense of tradition, a respect for the land and the animals that was palpable in everything they did.
By the time the sun began to set, I was exhausted but content. As I sit here now, writing this, I can still feel the connection to the land and the horses. Today was the first of many rides, but already I feel like I've learned so much—not just about the Criollos, but about the bond between horse and rider, the land and its people.
Tomorrow, Esteban is taking me out again, and I can't wait to see what the day will bring. But for now, I'm going to rest, knowing that I'm one step closer to understanding the heart of the Criollo breed, and one step closer to bringing that spirit back to Southern Lights Station.
Happy Trails!